Shoe and method of making the same



March 20, 1928. 1,663,094

7 F. PERKINS SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Dec. 9, 1926 2 Sheets5h'eet 1 March 20, 1928.

F. PERKINS SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Dec. 9, 1926 2 sheets-sneet' 2 Patented Mar. 20, 19 28.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE;

FREEMAN PERKINS, OF SEAIBROOK, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

SHOE AND. METHOD OF MAKIN G THE SAME.

Application filed December 9, 1926 Serial No. 153,562.

The object of this invention is to provide a. 'shoe combinin the desirable features of a turn and a Mo ay-sewed shoe, and is embodied in the improved shoe and the improvements in the method of making it hereinafter described and claimed.

Of the accompanying drawings forming a part of this specification,

Figure 1 is a side view, showing a last and the upper and outsole of a shoe temporarily secured thereto wrong side out, the outsole being shown by dotted lines.

Figure 2 is a' section on line 2-2 of Figure 1.

v out.

same parts in all of the figures.

Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 1 showing the fore parts of the outsole and upper, stitched together by turn-shoe machine stitches.

Figure 4 is a section on line 1-4 of Fig ure 3. v

Figure 5 is a side view, showing the shoe in the condition shown by Figure 4, removed from the last and still wrong side out.

Figure 6 is a side view, showing the shoe removed from the lastand turned right side Figure 7 is a section on line 7-7 of Figure 6.

Figure 8 shows the shoe relasted right side out, the rear parts of the outsole and upper being separated, a shank piece, a toe box, and a counter being shown by dotted hnes.

Figure 9 is an enlarged fragmentary Ion-- gitudinal section through the toe of the shoe and showing the box,

Figure 10 is an enlarged longitudinal section through the heel of the shoe, and showin'g'the counter.

. Figure 11 is a side view,showing the shoe removed from the last, and the rear parts of the outsole and .upper Stitched together by. McKay shoe stitches.

Figure 12 is a section on line 1212 of Figure 11.

igure 13 is a view similar to Figure 12,

showlng the channel lip" closed.

' Figures-14 and 15 are side'views, showing opposite sides "of the outsole.

Figure 16 is a perspective view of the ank piece, Figure 17 shows in perspective the box a shown by dotted lines in Figures 8 and 11.

The same reference charactersindicate the In carrying out my invention, I unite an outsole 20, and an upper 21 with each other, i

and with a half inner sole 22, as hereinafter described. The outsole is provided in the inner side of its fore part Sthis being the flesh side of a sole-leather so e) with an internal channel 23, having a closing lip 24. The channel is formed to receive turn-shoe machine stitches 25, and extends from the ball to and around the toe and back to the ball, as shown by Figure 14. The bottom of to a last 128, as shown by Figures 1 and 2,

and secured theretoby a tack 29, as shown by Figure 2. The fore part of the upper is pulled over, to fit it snugly on the fore part of the last, and its margin is temporarily secured to the outsole by lasting tacks 30 as shown by Figures 1 and 2. The fore parts of the upper and sole are then .united by the turn-shoe stitches 25, which are formed by a stitching machine of the Goodyear type used in the manufacture of turn-shoes, the stitches 25 being laid in the internal channels 23, and extended through the between substance, as shown by Figures 2 and 4, the

lasting tacks being removed, as fast as the stitching operation. requires. The rear parts of the sole and upper are now left unattached to eachother, the rear portion of the shoe being open. The shoe is then removed from thev last, as shown b Figure 5, and is turned right side out, as shown by Figure 6. The shoe is then relasted right side out, as

shown by Figure8, and the half inner sole 22, the preferred form of which is shown by Figure 16.,is placed upon the heel end of'the last and marginally overlapped by the ed es of the rear part of the upper, as shown y Figure 10, said edges and inner sole'being secured to each other by tacks 28. At the same time, the rear part of the upper is pulled over and conformed accurately to the heel end of the last by abed-lasting machine.

Theshoeis then removed from the last,

- ure 13.

Theshoe is now completed, so far as the union of the outsole, upper, and, inner sole is concerned, and may be completed by the usual operations including the attachment of the heel, and the finishing of the bottom and the sole edges. 1

It will be seen that the described construction of'the shoe permits the uniting of ,the fore parts of the upper and outsole to each other, while the shoe is wrong side out and the rear parts are unattached, so that the shoe may be easily turned right side out, and the rear part of the upper may be quick ly and conveniently pulled over the heel end of the last and fitted closely thereto before the formation of the McKay stitches. The shoe combines the well known advantages of turn and McKay sewed shoes, and is free from the disadvantages of each.

The described method permits the advantageous lining up of the top of the shoe, and the pulling of the usual inner linin and the upper, so that they are smooth an frw from wrinkles. \Vhen the McKay stitches are formed, there is no strain on the usual shank and heel seams, and the heel seam is straight and accurately located in a central position. The ease of turning the shoe right side out while the rear parts of the sole and upper are unattached, is an im-' portant advantage, the distortion, wrinkling, and. difliculty attending. the turning of a shoe, united all around by turnstitches, being avoided. I

.Figures 9 and 10 show a leather box-toe 30, incorporated in the toe portion, and a leather heel counter or stiflener 31, incorporated in the heel portiomof the up er. Thebox-toe 30 is moldedand placed w il'e 1n temper, between the inner lining 32 and the outer lining 33,- when the shoe is wrong side out, the toe portion of the inner lining being turned back, as shown by Figure 5, and the box placed on the inner lining, rubber or other suitable cement being applied to the opposite sidesof the box, and if desired, to the linings. The shoe is turned right side out while the box isin temper. The outer lining 33 is turned back, so that in the completed shoe, the box is confined between the linings, as shown by Figure 9. I

find that a leather box incorporated in this way in the toe portion of the shoe, is very durable, and cannot be crushedor damaged by any usage .to which the shoe is liable to be subjected.

The counter 31 is interposed between the -11n1ngs 32 and 33, when the shoe is in the ure 10, the parts being united by the tacks The McKay stitches are formed between the series of tacks 28 and the turn shoe stitches 25.

I claim:

1. A shoe comprising an outsole, an upper,

ahalf insole, including a heel portion and a shank portion, and a flanged heel counter, the fore part of the outsole being provided in its inner side with an inner channel ex.- tending from the ball at each edge portion to and around the toe, the bottom of said channel being separated from the margin of I the soleby between substance, the rear part of the outsole being provided in its outer side with outer channels extending from the ball to the heel, at opposite edge portions, and with lips to close said outer'channels, turn-shoe machine stitches securing the fore part of the upper to the fore part of the outsole, and extending through the saidbetween substance, said stitches being formed while the outsole and upper are wrong side out, tacks uniting the heel portion of the upper and the counter flangeto the heel portion of the half insole, and driven when the Shoe-is ri ht side out, and McKay stitches formed w en the shoe is right side out and uniting the outsole to the upper and insole between the tack-united portion of the upper and the turn-shoe machine stitches, the

channel flaps.

2. That improvement in the method of making a shoe comprising an outsole, an upper, and a half insole. which includes heel and shank portions, said improvement .consisting in providing the inner side of the outer sole fore part with an inner channel, extending from the ball at each edge P01". tion-to and around the toe,.the bottom of the channel being separated from the margin of the sole by between substance,prov1d1ng the outer side of the outsole with outer channels extending from the ball to the heel at opposite edge portions of the sole, and with lips to close the outer channels, applymg the upper and outsole wrong side out to a last, uniting the fore parts of the upper and the between substance, leaving the rear parts of the upper and outsole disconnected, removing the upper and outsole from the last and turning them right side out, relasting the shoe, uniting the heel portion of the upper to the heel portion of the half inner sole by tacks, removing the shoe from the last, and uniting the portions of the outsole, upper, and half inner sole between the tackunited portions and the turn-shoe stitches by McKay stitches laid in the outer channels, and covering said stitches by the lips of the outer channels. v

3. That improvement in thev method of making a shoe, comprising an outsole, an

upper, a half insole which includes heel and shank portions, and a flanged heel counter,

said improvement consisting in providing the inner side of the outer sole fore part with an inner channel, extending from the ball at each edge portionto and around the toe, the bottom of the channel being separated from the margin of the sole by between substance, providing the outer side of the outsole with outer channels, extending from the ball. to the heel atopposite edge portions of the sole, and with lips to close said channels, applying the upper and outsole wrong side out to a last, uniting the fore parts of the upper and outsole by turn-shoe machine stitches laid in the inner channel, and extending through the between substance, leaving the rear parts of the u per and outsole disconnected, removing-t e upper and outsole from the last and turning them right side out, relasting the shoe and interposing the counter between the heel portions of the upper and the last with its flange next to the last, applying the-half inner sole to the last with its margin between the upper and the counter flange, uniting the heel portion of the upper to the heel portion of the inner sole, and the counter flange by tacks, removing the shoe from the last, and uniting the portions of the outsole, upper, and half insole between the tackunited portions and the turn-shoe stitches by McKay stitches laid in the outer channels, and covering said stitches by the lips.

of the outer channels.

In testimony whereof I have afiixed my signature.

' FREEMAN PERKINS. 

